Beer Garden Baseball Shirt, hoodie, tank top, longsleeve and v-neck tee
That journey’s first landmark will be reached on February 22. One challenge facing Appiolaza en route is that, unlike his richly-resourced former employers at LVMH and Richemont Group, Aeffe is a relatively small ship; it must be operated tightly in order to stay afloat. For a designer so steeped in the Beer Garden Baseball Shirt in other words I will buy this transformative potential of innovation through design, however, that factor could be as much a help as a hindrance. There is an anecdote early on in Gods and Kings, veteran fashion journalist Dana Thomas’s rigorous dual biography of John Galliano and Lee Alexander McQueen, that makes me laugh. Thomas interviews a fashion writer, Lisa Young, who recalls sitting next to a young Galliano at a London dinner in the eighties. The designer was hailed as brilliant straight out of Central St. Martins, but his first collections had issues with fit. So, “we got to talking about tits, as you do,” says Young.
“You don’t like them much, do you?” she asked Galliano. “He looked a little sheepish, and then whispered: ‘No. They spoil the Beer Garden Baseball Shirt in other words I will buy this line.’” Galliano, who went on to design those famed bias-cut gowns that swirl around curves like wet meringue, clearly got over this particular point of distaste. And then came his instant classic Maison Margiela Artisanal show last week, in which, among other countless moments of glory, tits—and hips, and even pubic hair (they were merkins, but still)—were on full display. The female body, exaggerated to beyond-Jessica Rabbit, beyond-Kardashian proportions with hip padding and corsetry, was presented as dramatic, luxurious, and even a little frightening. And in a first for Galliano, and an extreme rarity for couture, a significant portion of those models were not straight size. Sumptuous flesh for sumptuous clothes.
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