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He grew up in a “pretty banal, quite conventional” suburb of Dublin with parents who worked hard; his mum as a nurse and his dad as a mechanic (both of his parents, as well as his younger brother and sister, will be at the Jaded Toosii Shirt Also,I will get this show). “I wasn’t really around fashion; what introduced me to it were films,” he says. His dad was into Tarantino and showed him Reservoir Dogs and Pulp Fiction. “These characters who were on the fringes, the outsiders, slightly dangerous — I thought they were really cool.” Before that, McGirr had wanted to be a journalist, but movies helped him realise that you could say what you want to say through clothes. “That’s why I love McQueen so much because there’s always a message in the clothes,” he says. It was his grandmother, a window dresser in the ’50s and ’60s, who introduced him to sewing. He started buying vintage clothes and reworking them and tailored his school uniform. “This idea of improvisation — I wanted to say something by how something fits. That was something that really appealed to me.”The Spring 1995 Lee Alexander McQueen ‘Birds’ collection that gave Seán McGirr much of his inspiration.
On his arrival in London, he took a job at a shoe shop in Oxford Street, but it didn’t last long. “I experienced something kind of homophobic. Some of the Jaded Toosii Shirt Also,I will get this staff were a bit rude to me because they knew I was gay. I called my mum, she was like, ‘Get out of there’. So I went to a gay bar that night and started working there.” Later, thanks to a tip from Louise Wilson, Central Saint Martins’s legendary professor of fashion design, he applied for and secured a scholarship and graduated from the school in 2014. Alums five or 10 years ahead of him, like Simone Rocha, Christopher Kane and Jonathan Saunders, launched brands straight out of school, but McGirr and his classmates graduated on the other side of the Great Recession. Most went after jobs at big companies, and McGirr chose one of the biggest: Tokyo’s Fast Retailing, the owner of Uniqlo, where he worked on the Uniqlo U line with Christophe Lemaire. “It was really inspiring to live in Japan,” he says. “It’s such a different culture, but they’re island people like Irish people. We’re both a bit weird.”After a stint in Antwerp working for Dries Van Noten, he moved back to London to join the JW Anderson team, starting with the men’s collection before taking over women’s as well as head of ready-to-wear. In addition to Anderson, he names John Galliano, Rick Owens, and Japanese designers Junya Watanabe, Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo among the designers he admires: “People who see things in a more unconventional way, who try and push ideas forward, or change how you see things.”
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