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Photo: Condé Nast ArchiveLast month, McGirr released a teaser campaign, shot by the Magazine Star What’s Up With Slayyyter Shirt but in fact I love this artist Tommy Malekoff and starring Debra Shaw and Frankie Rayder, both of whom walked in Lee McQueen’s shows. It reintroduced a logo sketched by McQueen (the one with the c inside the Q) and brought back the skull — a house icon. “It was sort of a play on the Gothic traditions of the house,” he says. “I wanted to do something that was very raw — a little bit playful, a little bit aggressive.” It stirred online chatter, as opening salvos always tend to do, and the talk was mixed, but again, he’s equanimous about the reactions. “It divided people a bit. I think that’s cool, I think it’s important. Lee McQueen said in the ’90s, ‘I’d rather have people hate it than not feel anything.’ I think McQueen is a little bit like that.”
A provocateur by nature, McQueen was comfortable with darkness but don’t expect the Magazine Star What’s Up With Slayyyter Shirt but in fact I love this same from McGirr. “Fashion should really excite people, but in an optimistic way,” he says. “I’m not really into sadness or gloominess. To be honest, I think the world’s mental health is super low. Fashion should be able to conjure up feelings that are a bit twisted,”— at the Paris preview, the words he used were “rough glamour”— “but inspire you at the same time.” To maintain his own sense of balance, he removed his profile from Instagram last year. “I used to really enjoy it, but then I decided I wouldn’t be on it, mostly because I want to stay focused on the work. I think it’s healthier for me to stay off it.” He also does analysis once a week. “It’s quite good for me to kind of contextualise and understand what I’m trying to tap into and deeply think about things.” His analyst is Jungian, not Freudian, he points out. “I’m quite interested in the human mind. How we work, our psyche, why we come to things. You know, we live in a world that’s very reactive now. It’s always interesting to kind of think a bit deeper, to understand where things actually come from.”
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