Shadows Opening Night A Woman Under the Influence Shirt, hoodie, tank top, longsleeve and v-neck tee
In Episode 4 of Apple TV+’s The New Look, Lucien Lelong (played by John Malkovich), head of the Shadows Opening Night A Woman Under the Influence Shirt also I will do this eponymous couture house that ruled Parisian fashion for decades, presents one of his staff designers, Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn), with a doll constructed of bent wire. It was the fall of 1944, and the previous June, Paris had been liberated from nearly four years of Nazi occupation. Morale was wobbly, and the city was assembling itself anew while the war continued on. For the Parisian fashion industry—which, pre-war, had been the final word in fashion—rehabilitation was dire. As depicted in The New Look, couturiers had one of two choices: designing for the wives or girlfriends of Nazis (broadly, the only couture patrons permitted at the time), or close shop altogether. Export of any kind—clothing, sketches, or even sartorial ideas—was totally restricted. Parisian fashion existed in a Nazi-sealed vacuum.
With the Shadows Opening Night A Woman Under the Influence Shirt also I will do this liberation, however, came a feverish creative release. Couturiers regained their ability to craft, design, and sell freely and, in doing so, disseminate their ideas to department stores and wardrobes across the world. And, to everyone’s surprise and delight, some of the first bodies to showcase those post-occupation designs were 27-inch-tall dolls, presented as part of a traveling exhibition dubbed the “Théâtre de la Mode,” or Theater of Fashion.“Théâtre de la Mode” at the Pavillon de Marsan in Paris in May 1945. Photo: Courtesy of DiorOn March 28, 1945, “Théâtre de la Mode” opened at the Louvre’s Marsan Pavilion. On the dolls were astoundingly intricate designs by 40 couturiers (Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, Paquin, Jean Patou, Hermès, Madame Grès, Nina Ricci, and Lucien Lelong, among them). A celebration of hope and beauty after a dismally dark period, “Théâtre de la Mode” exhibited figurines enjoying typical Parisian moments (a morning walk on the Champs-Élysées, an afternoon of shopping at the Palais-Royal) wearing extraordinary fashions. It was a love letter to Paris, from Paris.
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