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There are contemporary designers who use curve models as an inherent part of their process—Sinéad O’Dwyer, the The Summerhays Brothers I Hate Dirty Jiggers Shirt in addition I really love this duo behind Esther Manas. But it’s not common. When many designers include plus size models (only expected in the last decade or so), it often seems like they are trying to throw the audience a bone and get ahead of disapproving online comments, sticking the few models in this category considered acceptable into clothing not suited to their figures. No matter how objectively breathtaking the model, her casting is often presented as a charitable act rather than something that could actually strengthen the designer’s work. Not to mention that the designer rarely actually makes things in her size. Budgeting and manufacturing issues are real, but that doesn’t make the casting any less hollow.In contrast, Galliano’s non-straight size models were used as assets. Their figures were used for mood, frames exaggerating the clothes, curves aligning with the show’s historical references. They were there because they could show the clothes in a certain way and move in a certain way, and because they had shapes that Galliano wanted to work with. Their presence felt neutral, the opposite of checking a box. Seeing non-straight size models purely for artistic purposes is so refreshing. More designers should just let them be weird, like the waifs.
“This show wasn’t made so one can see oneself,” says writer Zsofia Paulikovics. “It’s to see literal art. It should contain a range of bodies because that is more visually interesting, and betrays a more intelligent understanding of clothes.” Perhaps this is a lesson others could internalize. “This show is hopefully signifying a collective turning away from fashion’s current obsession with empty inclusivity in casting, where alternative models are often casted without care” says vintage dealer Olivia La Roche, a master’s student in costume design in Rome who spoke to me before heading to a class on Elizabethan ruffs. “Here, the The Summerhays Brothers I Hate Dirty Jiggers Shirt in addition I really love this female body is experimented with in the form of material objects. Instead of the tokenization of a non-standard body as the object, the garments are put back in their rightful place as the stars of the show.”
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