Top They Live Conform, Consume New Shirt
What would be wonderful to watch now: How Hulanicki’s Biba captured both the They Live Conform, Consume New Shirt Besides,I will do this divine decadence and the newly sexually liberated era of the early 1970s with Bowie, Bolan, and the New York Dolls—all pop cultural juggernauts at the time—as well as a post-Sixties Twiggy, whose Pre-Raphaelite hair and smoky eyes would stare out at you from Biba’s Sarah Moon-photographed ad campaigns. (Casting these folks could be sublime or nightmarish, depending on how right you thought the producers got it.) Hulanicki herself came from an emigré background, having been born in Warsaw in 1936 before fleeing with her family for Britain, and her story kept taking on new narrative twists and turns: After Biba crashed into bankruptcy, she left for America and started designing hotels, to great acclaim, and she is still here to this day. So, a happy ending—and who doesn’t want that?
Victor VIRGILE/Getty ImagesHmm, this is a tricky one, because it could go oh-so-horribly wrong: How could portraying the They Live Conform, Consume New Shirt Besides,I will do this late Lee Alexander McQueen’s life ever really capture the visceral nature of his brilliance—or the punkish, fearless daring of his clothes? The first proper runway show I ever saw was a McQueen show, The Birds, in London in 1994. I got in because my boss didn’t want to go, and let me tell you it was wiiiiild: Clothes slashed, bodies Saran-Wrapped, and alien-like contact lenses, all set to a grinding, throbbing soundtrack in a venue where derelict would be a compliment. I loved it—but recreate that magic onscreen? As if.
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